Mali and Facebook? Who knew?

More about our tour with Mali Mystere:

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The postmaster at Timbuktu cancels the stamps on our postcards.

The postcards from Timbuktu arrived this week. I wrote one to a friend in January and shed a tear then, as I shed a tear now, for her support to encourage me to follow my dreams. Little did I know that the trip of a lifetime would stick with me in so many tenacious ways.

Aly Dicko in Pays Dogon.

Aly Dicko in Pays Dogon.

 

 

So, Aly Dicko of Timbuktu is on Facebook and we were actually chatting in real time a few days ago. Do you know how weird that is? With the 8 hour difference to Mali, and the long waits between emails all summer, it was a bit disconcerting! But then, he was in Europe, too. I suspect the internet connections might be a wee bit speedier in Europe than in his hometown?

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Our guide in Djenne was the knowledgeable Mamadou Diawara.

Then, Mamadou Diawara from Djenne is still in touch too. I’ve been sending him pictures as I find them. Here he is showing us a tablet from the Quran school in Djenne.

When I went to Germany with Sally and Carrie — we shared the memories among ourselves and our friends for many years. But we didn’t leave friends behind in Germany or worry about particular Germans we had met. This is entirely different. We met Aly and Mamadou in their homes and home towns, and saw the difficulties their country has survived and continues to have. We heard their stories, teased and got teased back, played with new languages and (sometimes just as entertaining) experienced new cultural norms. Since our friends were hesitant about our trip, it was easy to notice the tourist infrastructure in Mali that was more than a bit short of tourists. We who have social media at our fingertips can at least do reviews, post pictures and connect in social media ways that might help Aly and Mamadou be more successful.

And the music. There was laughter about listening to “the soundtrack to Timbuktu” for the whole trip. I finally heard Tracy Chapman’s lyrics and Bob Marley is Universal, isn’t he? Aly had quite a collection of music on that USB flash drive. We asked him for the list of artists, but of course I didn’t get the actual albums or songs, so I’m on this quest for Malian music that is utterly absorbing. The Limelighters had a song about a woman completely besotted with Russian fashion and music. In part: “A-Yee A-Yee, she wears a Cossack blouse, she dances wildly all around the house, tomorrow morning they will find me dead, she even wears her Cossack boots in bed!” If I could only adjust that Russian reference so the song would be about Mali! Kathie heard me sing the Limelighters version while we were still traveling, probably in the middle of the trip, when I was most thrilled to be in Africa, especially Mali.

Portland had the movie “Timbuktu” showing in the Portland International Film Festival and Kathie and I saw it last weekend. We remarked how glad we were that we had actually been to the desert before we saw the movie. (It was showing in Brussels over Christmas, we almost saw it there.) The movie is astounding and I hope it wins the Oscar for Best Foreign Film next weekend. The tents, the cattle and the river, and the central themes of love and the desire for peace — a beautifully crafted story filmed in Mauritania because Timbuktu was pretty shaky at the time. If you have a chance to see it, you should. The dust, the acacia trees, the desert . . . they are almost characters in the film too.

At the same time Portland is hosting the 25th Annual Cascade Festival of African Films running through the beginning of March. I’ll be trying to connect with some of those free showings, too. Maybe I can get a good recipe for Ginger Juice while I’m there!

Brussels, Bamako, and Beyond

I was making a face for the camera at the time, but at the moment it is more like how I feel about this trip!

I was making a face for the camera at the time, but at the moment it is more like how I feel about this trip!

So today I found a foreign language collection of tapes for the widespread Maliian language Bambara. (Maybe I can leave the French to Kathie?) And I’ve survived the yellow fever vaccination reaction, and my passport has the Mali Visa ready to go. More and more it feels like a real trip. When I visit with people who have travelled to Africa, they are glad for us going to Brussels for a few days first. That means we’ll have a chance to adjust to the time zone change before we land in the capitol city Bamako for the 16-day tour.

Brussels at Christmas should be a destination all by itself though. Chocolate and lace, beer and old Europe, altogether a great start. I found an apartment very close to the Grand Place and with a kitchen we don’t have to eat out all the time. Might have a side trip to Bruges or anywhere else, and we have to make our way to Charles de Gaulle airport to fly to Africa.

Here’s the tour itinerary:
Mali Mystere 16-day tour : From the River to the Desert
Bamako, Djenné, Dogon country, Mopti, Niger River, Tombouctou and the desert, Ségou, Bamako.

Day 1: Saturday – Bamako
Upon arrival at the airport in Bamako , your guide is there to welcome you and accompany you to dinner. Overnight at the hotel Tamana.**

Day 2: Sunday – Bamako to Djenné
Morning departure from Bamako to Djenné via an air-conditioned 4×4. We will pass beautiful mud villages and meet with villagers who will explain the tradition of millet and the traditional costumes made from bazin. Lunch en route. Dinner and overnight at an encampment/hotel.** You will enjoy breakfast in the lovely shaded terraces.

Day 3: Monday – Djenné
Morning tour of the city and its rich history, with the largest and most beautiful mud mosque in Africa and the world. Monday is the day of the colorful weekly market, where you can find lovely traditional fabrics. You will walk through the narrow alleys to explore the majestic Sudanese-style mud buildings. Behind each door a warm welcome awaits you. Djenné is the ideal setting to enjoy the great variety of ethnic groups that inhabit the Niger River Valley and the inland delta. Lunch in a local restaurant; the afternoon is free to enjoy the market; dinner and overnight at an encampment/hotel.**

Days 4 – 7: Tuesday to Friday – Dogon Country
Morning departure for Dogon country via the Bandiagara cliffs. Lunch en route. Change of scenery for 4 days, amid Dogon villages with their unique cultures and long-held traditions.

Hike along the cliffs to meet the villagers and ancient dwellings of“Tellems.”?You will discover the Dogon traditions of weaving cotton to make bogolan (mud cloth) as well as carving wooden masks and fertility statues. Each village hosts its Tougouna, a place of exchange that welcomes all village elders, called the “house of words.” Discover Dogon cliffs, plateaus and plains through trekking. Nights are spent in safe, comfortable encampments in the village.

On the seventh day, we return to the 4×4 and depart for Mopti.
Guided tour after lunch: the crossroads of trade on the Niger River. Observe dugout canoes and pinasses being built. You will be surprised by the elegance and unique colors of each pinasse; this is how the city of Mopti gained the prestigious name “the Venice of Mali.” Dinner and overnight at the hotel “Ya Pas de Problème” [the quaintly named, There is no Problem Hotel]**. Do not deprive yourself of capitaine skewers, a succulent white fish and local Mopti specialty!

Days 8: Mopti – Tombouctou by Pinasse
Morning departure via a fully equipped, motorized pinnase along the Niger River . Three days and two nights to experience the tranquility of the river:?meeting Bozo fishermen, visiting villages and witnessing the smoking of fish, roaming livestock, and petty trade; crossing Mali ’s largest lake, ” Lake Debo ” where many species of migratory birds reunite; and swimming with our friends the hippos! Every night at sunset, we reach beautiful places to camp along the riverbanks in complete safety. Somehow the river will make you work up quite an appetite for fresh-caught fish, eaten sitting around the campfire under a brilliant sky of stars.

On the tenth day, arrive in Tombouctou in the afternoon and overnight at the hotel Ya Ka Seme or Colombe **.

Day 11: Tuesday – Tombouctou
Morning tour with a historian who will unveil the rich cultures and traditions of this most famous, mysterious city. Discover its mosques, the center of 16th century manuscripts, the houses of early explorers, the museum, the traditional spice market, and witness the creation of handicrafts and silver jewelry. During lunch with a Tombouctou family, (Note: someone on trip advisor says this is our tour guide’s mother!) you will taste a local specialty with 12 spices. In the afternoon, depart for a camel ride in the desert. You can savor the beauty and total silence of the desert. Meet my friends the Tuaregs and their leader Ibrahim who will tell you the legends of the Sahara under a star-studded night sky by the fire. We will partake in traditional Tuareg meals and tea, and spend the night under the dazzling stars or in a Tuareg tent.

Day 12: Wednesday – Tombouctou
Return to Tombouctou by camel; free afternoon in the city of 333 saints.
Dinner and overnight at the hotel Ya Ka Seme or Colombe**.

Day 13: Thursday – Tombouctou to Mopti
Morning departure by air-conditioned 4×4 where you will have the pleasure to enjoy magnificent scenery.
Picnic en route. Arrive Mopti in the early afternoon. Dinner and overnight at the hotel “Ya Pas de Problème.”**

Day 14: Friday – Mopti to Ségou
Morning departure to Ségou. You will marvel at the giant, luxurious baobab trees lining the roads, as well as Bambara and Bobo villages. We will stop briefly to admire the mosque in San. Arrive Segou in the mid-afternoon; dinner and overnight at the hotel Esplanade.**

Day 15: Saturday – Ségou to Bamako
In a morning tour of Ségou, you will have the opportunity to discover the pottery made by a cooperative of women in the market, and the dye house where everyone can paint a bogolan. Lunch on the restaurant then depart for Bamako for 3h30min drive; enjoy the afternoon at leisure; dinner is at a local restaurant. Overnight at the hotel Tamana**

Day 16: Sunday – Bamako
Morning tour of the city: the home of artisans, the market with fruit and spices, the National Museum. Lunch is at a restaurant; the afternoon is at leisure; finally, transfer to the airport with the help of your guide.

(Note: somewhere else indicates the ** have a meaning about the lodgings. Mostly that a 5 star “western style” hotel is out of the question, that the best lodgings in Mali would be more rustic, or words to that effect.)

For the 16-days tour: The cost: 1940 Euros
Included:
The rental of a the car and driver throughout the stay;
The fuel,
The pinasse (boat) rental;
Overnight stays in hotels and encampments
Three complete meals per day for the entire trip;
Tourist taxes; hotel taxes; the accompanying guide
Not included:
The international flight, drinks

Responsible travel: Cultural tour of Mali

Community
We work hard to ensure positive impacts to the local communities and surroundings that we encounter, and encourage travellers to contribute items that are inexpensive and easy to pack, such as pens for schoolchildren and recycled clothing.

Our group sizes typically range from 5 to 9 people, which we believe minimizes impact to the environment and allows our travellers to gain more insight into their surroundings through more individual attention from our guides. We derive ultimate satisfaction from teaching our guests about Malian culture and keeping our traditions and heritage alive through carefully-planned, sustainable, developing tourism.

We employ 100% local guides, drivers and cooks. Guides are selected who already have special knowledge about the areas they will introduce to tourists, have numerous local contacts, and constantly seek to increase their knowledge and have a passion for teaching tourists about their environments. With visits to local fruit and spice markets, a local women’s cooperative selling pottery & eating in local restaurants, this trip helps to stimulate the local economy.

Environment
In Mali, key tourist destinations are spread far throughout the country, and we plan tours carefully so as to maximise ride sharing. We make sure to arrange transport that accommodates maximum capacity while still maintaining comfort for our guests. Mineral water is safest for tourists and we always offer empty bottles to children and adults along our journeys who will continue a long cycle of re-use for the bottles. Mali currently is working to reduce large amounts of plastic bags that are not properly disposed of throughout the land, and travellers are quickly made aware of this and encouraged to individually do their part to dispose of any waste in designated facilities.

Just a few short weeks

1400 miles touring Oregon, mostly east side, lots of good stuff at work, and a new niece . . . the daughter of my oldest brother. We lost track of her for about 30 years (family drama, yep, you betcha). Sadly, my my brother died in mid-June. I’ve been trying to gather pictures and family tree (thanks cousin!) and I’m looking forward to meeting her this weekend. We’ll see.

Another friend is moving to Portland, and I’ve finished my volunteer obligations at church. Feels good to be free of the obligation and the worry of having to deal with surprises related to the community.

I”m also checking out the finances of retirement . . . seems a shame to work if I don’t have to. Someone else might really LIKE my job!

Heatwave coming. Happy Summer!

All those places you’ve driven past and not stopped

Add Brietenbush retreat center and the spot where the Metolius river bursts forth from the hillside. I know I saw the river as a kid, but never did go up the road from Hwy 20 to Brietenbush. We couldn’t even walk around the grounds today, because they were so full. Yes you can drive from Airport Way to Estacada to Sisters on back roads. It has been beautiful. Sun and rain and big old ponderosa pines. Saw the B&B complex fire interpretive station — man that was a huge fire. Then tonight walking back from dinner in Sisters, the N. Sister summit was visible with a blanket of clouds all around like a kid with a comforter. Good to get out of the narrow confines of church, work, home, and see some new country.

The 36th Board Meeting

It is Earth Day today, with all the promise of spring and the summer to come.  Do you plan ahead for trips and activities? Or do you prefer going with the spur-of-the-moment possibilities and staying flexible? I do a combination, and it keeps me from staying home all the time. I like to have something to look forward to. And I like being spontaneous. There’s a satisfaction to taking advantage of circumstances to experience something different.IMG_4011

It was a spontaneous circumstance that happened to me about three years ago. Three men asked me to come to the minister’s office because they had a question for me. Would I be willing to serve as President of the Church Board?

Of course, I was flattered. It’s a very visible role. And I was wary. I told the Rev. that he couldn’t retire on my 2-year term and he agreed. And so began the adventure of the last three years.

Right off the bat, our administrator resigned. She was moving downtown to serve as a full time administrator for the larger church. One lady stepped up to help in the office, and later another administrator came on board.

Then, in August, just before the beginning of our church year, our Director of Religious Education (DRE) resigned for personal reasons. We wished her well, and scrambled to find our Acting DRE to launch the fall season and begin the search for a DRE. Our new DRE was seated the following May

in Juneau AK

St. Nikolas Orthodox Church in Juneau, AK

There was Calling our Minister and Installing our Minister – that was a real treat for the congregation and the minister. Seeing all those robed ministers processing around our tiny church really added dignity to our festive occasion.

There was revising the by-laws. Fifteen minutes of every board meeting until it got done.

One year ago, the nominating committee was struggling to find a willing candidate for the president’s position on the board. Right about then, the minister announced his retirement. I offered to serve another year. It would mean finding an Interim Minister, and managing all the occasions of celebration and loss that go with saying goodbye to our friend and locksmith.

Then, late last summer, an alternative high school needed space in East County to start their program for two local school districts. They rented the entire facility; house, parking lot, main building, and basketball hoop. It was our first venture as a landlord, and it didn’t turn out bad at all. A lady who is still a member, still pledges, and never comes to service, was the link that brought the alternative high school to us. Another school district has followed, and rents the house 4 days a week.

And the 179th Avenue house: Now the Warren James House. To buy or not to buy, that was the question. Even as our budget was clearly a reality check, buying the house was a leap of faith into the future. How else do we learn to fly?

St. Nickolas Orthodox Church in Juneau, AK

St. Nickolas Orthodox Church in Juneau, AK

So, I thought the church ship was in for smooth sailing with the arrival of our Interim minister. Close. Except that the part-time office administrator accidentally

found a full-time job with benefits, and of course we wish her well. Hiring another administrator was a good process with a good candidate. . . who also found a full-time job with benefits and turned us down. It must have been fate, because we found a third candidate, and she is doing a great job for us.

May 8th will be my 36th and last board meeting as President. May 22 will be the last congregational meeting (an evening, dessert pot-luck meeting, just for fun). New leaders will be serving on the board, and many changes are afoot. Some projects still need work, and some are cruising right along on autopilot. There is a lot of excitement as people step up to help in areas that may be unfamiliar to them. It’s our love for each other and our affection for this little church that makes this little ship sail along smoothly. I’m grateful to be part of the adventure. I hope the leadership continues to have fun and enjoy the accomplishments as they come along. I’ll be cheering from the sidelines for awhile.

Saturday night in Rockwood

Uploaded a bunch of photos, some from 2012 and some from 2004 — I’ve got this odd archival collection happening on a portable flash drive. Hard to tell if it will ever be fully IMG_3760organized. This is a locomotive in Skagway — seen through the windows of the excursion train. Interesting how the “red” building turned pink, partly because the photo was shot through the glass of a moving train, and partly because Skagway has a rustic, northern quality.