Mali and Facebook? Who knew?

More about our tour with Mali Mystere:

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The postmaster at Timbuktu cancels the stamps on our postcards.

The postcards from Timbuktu arrived this week. I wrote one to a friend in January and shed a tear then, as I shed a tear now, for her support to encourage me to follow my dreams. Little did I know that the trip of a lifetime would stick with me in so many tenacious ways.

Aly Dicko in Pays Dogon.

Aly Dicko in Pays Dogon.

 

 

So, Aly Dicko of Timbuktu is on Facebook and we were actually chatting in real time a few days ago. Do you know how weird that is? With the 8 hour difference to Mali, and the long waits between emails all summer, it was a bit disconcerting! But then, he was in Europe, too. I suspect the internet connections might be a wee bit speedier in Europe than in his hometown?

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Our guide in Djenne was the knowledgeable Mamadou Diawara.

Then, Mamadou Diawara from Djenne is still in touch too. I’ve been sending him pictures as I find them. Here he is showing us a tablet from the Quran school in Djenne.

When I went to Germany with Sally and Carrie — we shared the memories among ourselves and our friends for many years. But we didn’t leave friends behind in Germany or worry about particular Germans we had met. This is entirely different. We met Aly and Mamadou in their homes and home towns, and saw the difficulties their country has survived and continues to have. We heard their stories, teased and got teased back, played with new languages and (sometimes just as entertaining) experienced new cultural norms. Since our friends were hesitant about our trip, it was easy to notice the tourist infrastructure in Mali that was more than a bit short of tourists. We who have social media at our fingertips can at least do reviews, post pictures and connect in social media ways that might help Aly and Mamadou be more successful.

And the music. There was laughter about listening to “the soundtrack to Timbuktu” for the whole trip. I finally heard Tracy Chapman’s lyrics and Bob Marley is Universal, isn’t he? Aly had quite a collection of music on that USB flash drive. We asked him for the list of artists, but of course I didn’t get the actual albums or songs, so I’m on this quest for Malian music that is utterly absorbing. The Limelighters had a song about a woman completely besotted with Russian fashion and music. In part: “A-Yee A-Yee, she wears a Cossack blouse, she dances wildly all around the house, tomorrow morning they will find me dead, she even wears her Cossack boots in bed!” If I could only adjust that Russian reference so the song would be about Mali! Kathie heard me sing the Limelighters version while we were still traveling, probably in the middle of the trip, when I was most thrilled to be in Africa, especially Mali.

Portland had the movie “Timbuktu” showing in the Portland International Film Festival and Kathie and I saw it last weekend. We remarked how glad we were that we had actually been to the desert before we saw the movie. (It was showing in Brussels over Christmas, we almost saw it there.) The movie is astounding and I hope it wins the Oscar for Best Foreign Film next weekend. The tents, the cattle and the river, and the central themes of love and the desire for peace — a beautifully crafted story filmed in Mauritania because Timbuktu was pretty shaky at the time. If you have a chance to see it, you should. The dust, the acacia trees, the desert . . . they are almost characters in the film too.

At the same time Portland is hosting the 25th Annual Cascade Festival of African Films running through the beginning of March. I’ll be trying to connect with some of those free showings, too. Maybe I can get a good recipe for Ginger Juice while I’m there!

Seeing the world through new eyes . . .

I know the world has changed but I can’t put my finger on exactly what has changed for me. Traveling does that, I guess. Mali is one of the poorest countries in the world. Per capita annual income is like $620 per year. I think I heard that 25% of the government’s budget comes from foreign aid. They are just coming out of a state of seige from the incursion of sharia law extremists in the north. I was fascinated by Timbuktu since my buddy Thom had photos and stories about hitchhiking from Timbuktu to Alexandria in the 70s after his peace corps assignment in Cameroon.

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Pieces of salt and solar panels for sale in a roadside market between Bamako and Djenne, Dec. 2014. 

But it was so much FUN to be there. Aly Dicko, our guide, was knowledgeable and provided a recurring sense of humor even when things were a bit harsh for this city girl. (There was the evening he asked questions and wanted me to answer in French . . . much hilarity, that.) As the journey unfolded I realized just how risky such a trip is. Right down to the tap water in the capitol city Bamako. Everywhere we went, we were welcomed. There is so much empty tourist infrastructure it felt almost strange just to be a tourist at all.

Maybe in another year I’ll put my finger on what made this such a powerful experience. In the meantime, I’ll keep adding little bits to the web page to share the experience.

Third Nite of Word Press

It’s too much fun to play and try things out instead of paying attention to Google Search Optimization. I get the competitive streak that gaming Google can bring out in even the kindest people. We’ve explored Facebook badges, and now we’re working to backups. This keeps getting more and more interesting. It doesn’t help to be “distracted by shiny things,” though. Categorize, Categorize, Categorize.